Writing in the Kitchen by Davis David A.;Powell Tara;Harris Jessica B.;

Author:Davis, David A.;Powell, Tara;Harris, Jessica B.;
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: University Press of Mississippi

Notes

1. Among the citations and translations of this Creole song, see George Washington Cable, “The Dance in Place Congo,” 524, 529, which follows his fulsome description of the bamboula. The song, he claims, all comes to “one nonsense line meaning only, ‘When that ’tater’s cooked don’t you eat it up!’” But the provocative negative can signal precisely an invitation to “eat it,” as most other translations indicate. Gwenlodyn Midlo Hall relies on the translation of Alcée Fortier, “When the potato is cooked, it must be eaten,” in her study Africans in Colonial Louisiana, 316; and Martha Ward relies on several primary sources for the fuller song and translation she prints: “When the potato will be cooked, we shall eat it, we shall eat it, / Even if it is in the soup, even if it is in the ashes, / Even if it is in the syrup, we shall eat it, we shall eat it,” Voodoo Queen: The Spirited Lives of Marie Laveau, 91.

2. Jerah Johnson, Congo Square in New Orleans, 5, 9–11. Johnson also cites Benjamin Latrobe’s famous description of Congo Square published in the early nineteenth century, where Latrobe’s decidedly nervous account of the market people along the river included an abundance of food for exchange—“‘wild ducks, oysters, poultry of all kinds … bananas, piles of oranges, sugar cane, sweet and Irish potatoes,’” 1–2.

3. See Susan Tucker and Sara Roahen, “Mirliton and Shrimp,” in New Orleans Cuisine: Fourteen Signature Dishes and Their Histories, 142.

4. See Johnson, Congo Square in New Orleans, 5–13; and Freddi Williams Evans, Congo Square: African Roots in New Orleans, 109–13.

5. Evans documents these appearances of the sweet potato, 110 and 113. For a discussion of calas as they appeared in one of the earliest of New Orleans cookbooks, The Creole Cookery Book, see Karen Trahan and Sharon Stallworth Nossiter, “Red Beans and Rice,” in New Orleans Cuisine, 134–35.

6. For example, Gaston Bachelard, The Poetics of Space, and Edouard Glissant, Poetics of Relation.

7. See Tucker and Roahen, “Shrimp and Mirliton,” in New Orleans Cuisine, 143–44; and see Sarah Roahen’s discussion of the artichoke in her book Gumbo Tales: Finding My Place at the New Orleans Table, 63–64.

8. See the discussion of such matters in Susan Tucker, et al., “Setting the Table in New Orleans,” in New Orleans Cuisine, 14–17.

9. See Kein’s essay “Louisiana Creole Food Culture” in her edited book Creole, where she cites several sources on the foods and chants of women in Africa and throughout the Caribbean world, 250–51. For a study of the dominant and pervasive influence of Africa in food throughout the American South, see Jessica Harris’s classic Beyond Gumbo: Creole Fusion Food from the Atlantic Rim.

10. See Hall, 34–37, and Leathem and Nossiter, “Red Beans and Rice,” in New Orleans Cuisine, 133–35.

11. See this discussion of “Red Beans and Rice” in New Orleans Cuisine, 136–38.

12. Richard Collin, The Revised New Orleans Underground Gourmet, 17–18. Also see “Setting the Table in New Orleans,” in New Orleans Cuisine, 16–17, n. 11.

13. See

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